Up in the north-west corner of Barbados in the little fishing community of Shermans. It flanks either side of the coastal road, which is generally quiet, except when buses come whizzing through. Down the lane, simple local chattel houses lie by the roadside and fishing boats are hauled up. The unkempt sandy beach running along from Little Good Harbour has a certain charm but is by no means perfect: it backs on to the road, can be narrow at high tide, and there are rocks underwater.

You feel a world away from the busy and flashy parts of Barbados. Most guests rent a car for all or some of their stay. The nearest town is lovely, old-fashioned Speightstown, five minutes' drive away; Holetown, focal point of the west coast's tourism, is 20 minutes' drive.
 

The property is divided into two areas. On the inland side of the coastal road lies almost all the accommodation, housed in quaint, Creole-style cottagey, clapboard units with louvred shutters, and reached via pathways thick with bamboo, ferns, palms and bougainvillaea and dotted with Asian sculptures.

On the sea side of the road lies The Fish Pot restaurant, a lovely old coral-stone building (originally a mini 17th-century fort) where a casual-chic atmosphere pervades, both in its art-filled dining rooms and the covered open-air dining decks that extend along the back of the beach.

Little Good Harbour's hands-on owner is Andrew Warden, a debonair Australian who can be seen most days working his socks off in the restaurant charming guests. Andrew also owns The Atlantis, on Barbados' east coast. The hotel manager is Graham Dear, a chatty and very obliging Bajan.

There are two attractive swimming pools overseen by Balinese sculptures, a homely little spa and a gym. Kayaks are available free of charge, and a water-taxi service operates along the west coast (for a fee).
 

All the 19 accommodation units are called suites, though given their spaciousness and the fact that they all have proper kitchens, apartments might be a better term. Cheapest options are split-level, cottage-like one- and two-bedroom Garden suites with a downstairs sitting room and kitchen, and upstairs bedroom with four-poster bed draped with mosquito netting.

The six newer three-bedroom Vineyard suites have more individual furnishings, bigger and better-equipped kitchens, plus lovely large terraces perfect for outdoor dining; these are a great option for families or groups of friends. Bathrooms are typically large, marble affairs with big walk-in showers. The best-located accommodation, and the only unit on the sea side of the road, is the rustic two-bedroom Oceanfront Fort Suite; set above The Fish Pot and the beach, it has a lovely big, airy sitting room and terrace.

All suites come equipped with tea/coffee-making facilities and fresh milk. You can pre-order groceries.

The Fish Pot is one of my favourite places to eat on Barbados. It does fantastic salads, excellent, straightforward fish dishes and memorable curries; prices are more reasonable and the atmosphere more casual than at most of the island's other top-end restaurants.

A superior continental breakfast – including warmed croissants, banana bread, and a well-presented fruit platter – is included in the room rate; cooked dishes are available for an additional charge.

One-bedroom Garden suites from £218 (US$310) in low season; rising to £352 (US$500) in high. Not cheap by any means, but you do get a lot of space and amenities in the rooms for your money. Continental breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi.

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Lots of families stay at Little Good Harbour, with the larger suites ideal for families. The Fish Pot has a children's menu.